This entry shows how I went about making a bikini bottom pattern for the Tonner Antoinette body. The pattern in the following PDF is at the actual size generated by this process, but is intended to be used with stretch knit materials, and scaled down appropriately for the amount of stretch of the material chosen. If printed and sewn at actual size from knit fabric, the bottoms will have a loose fit. I typically scale down to 90% in the left-right direction when making these from knit t-shirt type material. If using a woven fabric with no stretch at all, a slit with closure may be needed down the back, or side closures, in order to get them onto the doll (I’ve only ever used stretchy materials).
The objective of this pattern is to provide the approximate shapes needed, experimentation is required to get a perfect fit for any particular fabric.
Pattern Download (PDF): cami_bikini.pdf
The supplies include: doll, masking tape, #11 scalpel (best) or fine-point x-acto knife, scanner, Adobe Illustrator or comparable drawing software.
Then, carefully cut at the joint edges, without cutting your doll. A scalpel is much better for this than most hobby knifes (x-acto) because the sharper blade means less pressure and sawing motion are required.
I’m extra careful cutting this seam. Notice how the blade is pointed away from the doll. I do this by cutting while lifting the tape away from the doll, without the blade riding along and scoring the doll.
Peel the tape off in one piece, and stick it to a sheet of paper. If your software and scanner combo don’t exactly preserve sizes of things, you might wish to first mark a scale on the paper with a ruler, for adjusting once the pattern is scanned.
I’ve used the Bezier handles on the points to fit curves to the tape shape. Because the tape piece is not perfectly symmetrical, I’ve chosen one side to represent the pattern, and I’m ignoring the right side.
Lastly, because I’m going to be using materials that have pattern or grain, I’m separating the pattern into a front and back piece, with a seam at the bottom of the garment. I used the offset outline command to add a 5mm border around each piece, for seam allowance. This is the drawing that I print and pin or transfer to my fabric. If I’m using a material without grain direction, the drawing above can be used as the 1-piece pattern.