How to Make Simple BJD Panties

This post is about how to make a very simple pair of panties (bikini brief shape) for a doll, that have a clean look without visible stitching:



You’ll need to have a pattern in order to follow this tutorial. I’ve already covered how I make my patterns in a previous blog entry here: Making a Bikini Bottom Pattern for Knit Fabrics Here is the pattern I’m using, make by this technique for the Iplehouse nYID body. I made this pattern quickly today and it’s a bit asymmetrical because I haven’t scanned it and cleaned it up in Illustrator yet like I show in some of my tutorials:



It’s important that the pattern line up correctly at the side seams, so that the leg holes are round:



First, cut out two copies from your material(s) of choice. One will be the exterior, one the liner. I’ve cut both from the same material, a white cotton T-shirt in this example. Because there will be two layers, it’s nice to work with thin fabric so that the end result is not bulky.



After you have the pieces cut out, pin the right sides together. For those of you new to sewing, the ‘right side’ is the one you ultimately want on the exterior of the garment–for the exterior piece, this is the side of the fabric that will face the world and be seen, and for the liner it’s the side that will be touching the doll. The ‘wrong’ sides will end up inside the garment facing each other after this gets stitched and turned right-side out. This is a knit material, so I’ve pinned them together with the side with the “V” shapes facing each other, and what you’re looking at in the photo below is the side with the bar-like backs of the stitches. With all stretchy materials, I like to pin the ends first, then the middle, then continue this process of bisecting the already-pinned sections until there are as many pins in it as I want. If you instead start pinning at one end and work your way across, you will very likely accumulate small differences in stretching of the front and back pieces at the far end, resulting in an overhang of one part over the other, and possible curvature of the piece when you let go of it. This way minimizes distortion:




Next, sew the pieces across the waist lines, and around the leg holes, leaving openings on the 4 sides that will become the hip side seams. At this point, I should have trimmed the seam allowances smaller and even, as you’ll see from how the end product looks, due to the thinness of this fabric. But I was sloppy (I skipped this step because with the fabrics I normally use, it doesn’t show). If you’re sewing by hand, use a proper hand backstitch here, not a running (gathering/basting) stitch, or you’ll be sad as your stitching rips out during the next step of the process.



Turn it right-side-out. This requires some tugging, and pushing the whole butt of the panties through the small side opening. This is why you don’t want to join these parts with a big running stitch if hand sewing–that will not likely survive the turning.



If your material is springy, the thing will have a tubular, puffy look when turned right side out. If the material can tolerate heat and responds well to ironing, iron it flat now as this will make it much easier to pin the side seams accurately:



Pin the top edges of the waist together at the ends, with the outsides of the garment facing each other. Notice the pin in the bottom center that is pointed to where the front and back edges intersect. This is where you want to stitch across, so that the seams form continuous round leg holes with no offset misalignment:




Stitch across. Do it first with a long stitch, and no backtracking, in case you have to pull it out due to not aligning the parts correctly. This is a basting pass. Remember, you’re looking at the panties inside out now. These seams end up on the inside.



Check that the edges line up well, with no ugly misalignment. If they do, stitch over it again, with backtracking or your lock-stitching/tacking method of choice to create seams that will hold up to the stress of the pants being pulled over unyielding plastic dolly thighs:



Trim the seam allowances, if your fabric is thick, you can also fold over the seam allowances and tack them, to help the seams sit flat against the doll. I didn’t do this, I just trimmed them close:



Turn right-side out, finished:




Here in the butt shot, you can see why I should have trimmed the seam allowances. They show through the thin material. Next time…


Making a Doll Stocking Pattern for Very Slinky Material

NSFW Warning: Photos in this article show a doll in lingerie, and may be inappropriate for some workplaces.

This post is a addendum to my stocking tutorial here:

Tutorial: How I Made Doll Stockings

I won’t repeat steps from that tutorial, but instead focus on an alternative method for coming up with a pattern when the material you want to work with is very, very stretchy and the exact amount of stretch during use matters. In this case, I wanted to use a very fine, large-hole fishnet material to make cabaret-style stockings. If I used a ready at-hand pattern, the resulting stockings would exhibit mesh density issues in use, with the mesh being stretched out some places, and looser and denser other places, because my existing patterns aren’t perfectly tailored to this material.

To avoid a lot of trial and error, I decided to use a new method, similar to how I’ve seen people making patterns using dummies and pins. In this case, in place of the pins, I used small Scünci hair claw clips. I folded a rectangle of my netting over, stitched across one end, and hung it on the leg from the toe, and then used the hair clips all down the back:



While clipped, I took a large hand sewing needle and thick thread, and crudely stitched up the back. Ideally, I should have used a bright neon thread for this, instead of black, so it would be easier to see in the following step.


After sewing up the back, I removed the clips, removed the stocking from the doll, and pinned the front edge to a quilting block through a piece of bristol board that will become the pattern:


I then unblocked the stocking and discarded it. I draw in the back of the pattern by connecting the pin dots:


At this point, all of my steps match those in my previous tutorial, except that due to the very open nature of this material, I triple stitched the back seam, stitching over it 3 times, with each run offset 1/3 of a stitch from the previous. With a single pass, there is risk of a hole in the back seam.


The end result:



Making Wooden Wedge Shoes for Ball-Jointed Dolls: A Tutorial

These are the shoes we’ll be looking at the making of today, which are being made for an Iplehouse nYID doll:



This blog entry documents how I make wooden shoes for ball-jointed dolls. Unlike some of my previous doll shoe tutorials, which have involved resin casting techniques requiring lots of specialized equipment, this one is very accessible. Even the steps involving power tools can be done with hand tools, with the right choices of materials and more time, patience and biceps workout.


Iplehouse nYID Bianca poses with her new shoes and the raw material from which they were hewn:



For this pair of shoes, I decided to use some wood a little fancier than the typical basswood carving blocks. I wanted that look I’ve seen on the dashboards of fancy old roadsters. This swirly, “figured” wood comes from burls, those round growths that happen on trees. For this type of wood, I went to a local supplier, Global Wood Source down in San Jose (by the airport). I browsed their selection of small “turning blocks”:



I came back with some maple burl blocks (left), and some Honduras Rosewood (middle) I’ll be using for another pair (shown here beside my basswood from Michaels, right):



Because I don’t stop to photograph every step of the process for every shoe I make, some of the steps shown in this tutorial will show these other woods being cut. The steps and tools are the same, though I’d like to note here that if you’re going to be using hand tools like a coping saw and hand sanding blocks, stick with basswood or birch.  It would be very time consuming to hand saw and sand maple, and impossible with rosewood, ebony, or any other really dense hardwood.


After sawing my wood blocks roughly to size, the first thing I do is draw the shape for my wedge sole on the side of the block. There are many ways to figure out the basic shape. I like having the doll stand on a block of clay, so that I know the wedge is at the right angle. Another easily impressible material is “oasis” floral foam–mash the dolls feet into it as she stands upright, then carve it down with a sculpey knife before tracing the pattern onto paper (I use bristol board weight). Here is final profile that I made from a thin piece of basswood:



After tracing the profile on to the block, I rough cut the wedge shape:


For the outline of the shoe, I need to trace the foot. I do this with the paper pressed to the bottom of the foot, conforming with it:



When this outline is traced onto the block, it gives the basic outline of the shoe. This is easier than trying to freehand the vertical projection of the foot down into the ground plane, IMO. If you made a clay or oasis prototype sculpt, you could just trace that too.



Then, it’s back to the bandsaw to rough out the outline of the shoe. You can see I did freehand draw the front of the shoe, I don’t want it exactly the outline of the toes:



At this point, I sanded for 40 days and 40 nights, using a variety of hand sanding sponges, dremel sanding bits, a belt sander, disc sander and quarter-sheet orbital sander.


Once sanded to a rounded shape, I use a Dremel high-speed cutter (rounded) to carve out recesses so that the doll’s foot appears to sit down into the shoe. Even once these recesses are covered with the suede bed, they help to keep the doll’s foot in place and not sliding around on the shoe. I use trial and error, and carbon paper to mark the areas where I need to hollow out:



After all the sanding and carving is when I usually lacquer the wood:



The next parts to make are the foot bed pieces. For both of the pairs of shoes you’re seeing made in this tutorial, I used real suede. I recommend the lighter shades, as I’ve found that most black suede rubs its color off on dolls. When I use black, it’s only for uppers, and I back it with white interfacing so that it doesn’t contact the doll directly.


First, I use masking tape to get the shape of the foot bed:



Then I transfer this to bristol board, to make pattern pieces:



These patterns are then traced onto Craft Fuse:

blog_150314_36 blog_150314_35


Then I iron the craft fuse to the backside of the suede. Notice that I mark not only which is left and right, but which side is the underside. It’s easy to get things flipped the wrong way round during this process, because of how the left and right are mirror images of each other:



Then I cut out the suede, with about 3/16″ allowance, and fold it around the Craft Fuse, and secure it with as little glue as possible:


The foot bed suede pieces don’t get attached to the wedges yet; most of the time, the shoe uppers wrap around under the bed, and these pieces actually get glued in place last.


So, time to make uppers. I like to sketch the shapes for my uppers onto either tape, or clear plastic. Here, for example, is how I do it using masking tape:



For the burl wood shoes’ black suede uppers, I used this masking tape process to make the pattern for the main top part, and attached the toe and ankle straps as separate pieces. What you see here below are the cut-out uppers being joined to the ankle straps by ironing them to the same piece of fusible interfacing:



The interfacing isn’t strong enough to do a butt-joint of the parts, I hand stitched them together afterwards:



At this stage, there is a lot of careful fitting that happens, so that the upper gets attached in such a way that the shoe fits snuggly on the doll’s foot. There is much temporary holding of things into position, masking taping, and measuring. Then, some more carving happens, because the wooden wedges need relief slots cut in them to accommodate the attachment points of the uppers, or else the suede foot bed pieces won’t sit flush against the wood, and it will look like a real botched job. I again turn to the Dremel for cutting these recesses. I use a disc cutter bit so that the slots are not visible on the side of the shoe. They taper up to the sides:




Now it’s time to measure, cut and attach the front straps. The white Craft Fuse interfacing on these straps is to keep the black suede from rubbing color off onto the doll, which it would do with direct contact:



First end attached by E6000 glue:blog_150321_17


And when the glue is dry, I drill small pilot holes and secure the straps with #19 x 1/2″ wire nails:  blog_150321_15


The other upper piece gets the same treatment: mill relief slots, glue, nail:



You’ll notice here that the ankle-wrap straps hand no interfacing on them yet. Ultimately, I decided to back them with Vinyl Fuse from Pellon, because the black suede coloring rubs off on everything (doll included). I’m not a big fan of Vinyl Fuse in general, because it tends to peel off, but if this happens I’ll replace it with some more cosmetically obtrusive medium-weight interfacing.blog_150321_11


After the uppers are nailed into place, the final steps are to glue the suede beds into position with E6000, and then glue some 1/32″ textured neoprene (from McMaster-Carr) to the bottom for traction, and the shoes are done:blog_150328_1-4

If you’re curious what the second basswood pair of shoes looks like, they will feature in the next post about creating the unique uppers for those shoes (which involves a sewing machine and much swearing).





Making a Bikini Bottom Pattern for Knit Fabrics

This entry shows how I went about making a bikini bottom pattern for the Tonner Antoinette body. The pattern in the following PDF is at the actual size generated by this process, but is intended to be used with stretch knit materials, and scaled down appropriately for the amount of stretch of the material chosen. If printed and sewn at actual size from knit fabric, the bottoms will have a loose fit. I typically scale down to 90% in the left-right direction when making these from knit t-shirt type material. If using a woven fabric with no stretch at all, a slit with closure may be needed down the back, or side closures, in order to get them onto the doll (I’ve only ever used stretchy materials).

Example of finished product made with the pattern from this tutorial:

The objective of this pattern is to provide the approximate shapes needed, experimentation is required to get a perfect fit for any particular fabric.

Pattern Download (PDF): cami_bikini.pdf

The supplies include: doll, masking tape, #11 scalpel (best) or fine-point x-acto knife, scanner, Adobe Illustrator or comparable drawing software.

The first step is to tape over the bottom of the doll like a diaper, making sure to overlap the leg joints

Then, carefully cut at the joint edges, without cutting your doll. A scalpel is much better for this than most hobby knifes (x-acto) because the sharper blade means less pressure and sawing motion are required.


After the leg holes are trimmed, I marked lines where I would want the garment to actually be. I have two lines drawn: higher one for panties, and a lower one for bikini bottoms.

On the side, I mark a line for the seam, which lines up with the seam on the doll’s body.

I’m extra careful cutting this seam. Notice how the blade is pointed away from the doll. I do this by cutting while lifting the tape away from the doll, without the blade riding along and scoring the doll.

Peel the tape off in one piece, and stick it to a sheet of paper. If your software and scanner combo don’t exactly preserve sizes of things, you might wish to first mark a scale on the paper with a ruler, for adjusting once the pattern is scanned.

Her I’ve brought the scan of the tape piece into Adobe Illustrator as a guide layer, and I’ve started placing a crude outline (key points).

I’ve used the Bezier handles on the points to fit curves to the tape shape. Because the tape piece is not perfectly symmetrical, I’ve chosen one side to represent the pattern, and I’m ignoring the right side.

Duplicate the left side outline, join into one shape.

Lastly, because I’m going to be using materials that have pattern or grain, I’m separating the pattern into a front and back piece, with a seam at the bottom of the garment. I used the offset outline command to add a 5mm border around each piece, for seam allowance. This is the drawing that I print and pin or transfer to my fabric. If I’m using a material without grain direction, the drawing above can be used as the 1-piece pattern.

If the Shoe Fits: An FR:16 Cinderella Story

One of the first things I did as a new FR:16 doll owner was begin to look for clothing and shoes. I found some anecdotal evidence about what fits them and what doesn’t–from other doll lines–but there is not a lot of information yet, nor a lot of pictures of these dolls on Flickr to get ideas from. So, I had to buy a bunch of stuff and see what fits. This blog entry is about the shoes I got: which ones fit, and how well. The ratings I provide after the name of each pair are how good I think the fit the FR:16. These are not overall quality ratings! I rate fit without stockings first, then with thin stockings (not knit fabric tights). If I have concerns about the quality of a shoe, this will be in my description, but is not reflected in the fit rating.

FR:16 have the same feet as 16" Poppy Parker. AvantGuard dolls also came with these feet as an option, which allows them to wear the flat-foot shoes reviewed here. Of all the shoes shown here, only the tall boots will fit differently on each of these dolls, since their legs are not the same.


Pair 1: Tyler Wentworth "Fierce" Shoes B-/B+

Some of the first shoes I got came in Tonner outfit sets. First up here are the strappy shoes from the "Fierce" set for Tyler. They were a little too big, and like most other 16″ doll shoes made for a high-heeled foot, the bend in the FR:16 bendy foot does not fall in exactly the right place. I also had to modify the ankle strap to get the buckle to fall in the right place and allow it to close tight enough. The end result is that the foot naturally falls into the shoe such that there is a little room behind the heel, and the toes protrude a bit. I’d give the fit of these shoes a B- bare, coming up to a B+ with stockings, once modified (original fit would be at best a C).


Pair 2: Ellowyne Essentials 5 D/C

Ellowyne’s shoes are just too big. These heels are a sloppy fit, even with stockings. With a little padding in the toe they can photograph passably with stockings, but I would not recommend buying them for FR:16.


Antoinette Influential B/A-

Antoinette’s shoes fit better than Ellowyne’s, no mistake. They are still a bit long for FR:16, but with stockings the fit is acceptable.


Doug James’s Decora Violett and Gabby Shoes B+/B

The shoes from the Decora dolls fit quite well on the bare FR:16 foot, they are just long enough. With stockings, things can get a bit tight. With tights, they would be no-go. They are too cute not to recommend, and Gabby’s outfit in particular looks killer on the FR:16’s, her short shorts fit perfectly. The shoes are not the highest quality production, but they offer a style not easily found elsewhere.


Sherry Fang V3 Sybarite Pumps A-/B+

Very well made. These don’t fit FR:16 perfectly, but the fact that the foot does not bend properly in the shoe is largely disguised by the shoe’s opacity. If there were any peep holes in the shoe, it would need a lower rating. But as is, the FR:16 foot goes in pretty flat and the end result is a decent look. These will fit with thin stockings, but not with thick tights.


Sherry Fang V3 Sybarite Pointed Pumps with Ankle Strap A-/B+

Very well made. These don’t fit perfectly, but the fact that the foot does not bend properly in the shoe is largely disguised by the shoe’s opacity. If there were any peep holes in the shoe, it would need a lower rating. But as is, the FR:16 foot goes in pretty flat and the end result is a decent look.


Sherry Fang Ellowyne Thigh-High Boots A-/B-

Firstly, due to the tallness of these, I am showing fit on FR:16 only. 16" Poppy and AG dolls have different legs, and fit will differ.
These fit well on the bare FR:16 leg, and the build quality is superb. They have room in the toe, of course, but you can’t see that. I don’t give them a solid A rating only because the leg contour is not perfect for this doll; I have no doubt that it is perfect for Ellowyne. On FR:16, the calf bump falls a little too low, and the top of the boots have a little room. Still, quite usable. The doll can bend her knees while wearing these.


Sherry Fang Sybarite Spike Heels B/n.a.

These don’t fit the curve of the FR:16 foot, but you can stretch the vamp and make them fit acceptably, IMHO. It’s about as good as you can expect for getting a super-high-heeled look on a doll that does not have a high-heeled foot. These are going to fit on bare feet only, no room for stockings.


Unknown Action Figure Brand Adidas Trainers A/A+

I found these on eBay, from a domestic US seller of action figure stuff, and they are just amazing. I hope to find more. The fit could not be any more perfect, even with lightweight socks. Seriously, how cute are these?!


Monsi Toys Low Converse B+/n.a.

Many Hong Kong sellers of action figure clothing sell these, and the fit is OK without socks–not quite wide enough, but they work. Won’t go on with socks because these are not rubbery. Quality is so-so, not great fit and finish, no coloring on the stitching. I’d buy them again though, they were only $10 on sale.


Monsi Toys High-top Converse B+/B-

Another Hong Kong gem. These fit well, but with the huge caveat that it took about 8 minutes to get them on the doll. These aren’t a pop-on product, I had to actually loosen the laces with a crochet hook and then tighten them once they were on. Will fit with stockings, but will be tight, mostly a width issue. Decently well made, rubbery.


ACI Toys 8-up Doc Martens B+/A-

The detail and quality of these is top-notch. Nice finish, rubbery, just awesome. Without any socks, they are big on the FR:16. With socks, they look and fit better, though still big. Of all the shoes here these are actually the closest ones to being realistically in scale with the doll. As you can see in the full-body photo, they make her look more like a real person and less like a tiny-footed fashion doll than usual. Even though they were $20.99, I’d buy these again in a heartbeat, and plan on getting them in the other colors (this was a trial purchase).


Action Figure Crocs A/n.a.

Rigid plastic crocs from eBay Hong Kong seller. Available in many colors. They fit just right with no socks, but with no room for stockings. Quality isn’t great, they feel like they could break easily.


JamieShow Wedges B/B+

I bought two pairs of JamieShow shoes from AngelicDreamz, and this pair was worth the entire order price. Once again, not a perfect contour for the FR:16 foot, but the upper hides enough to make them still look pretty killer. I love these, and they are very well made.


JamieShow Black Wedges C-/C

These are the other pair of JS shoes I got. Fit of these is awkward at best. The upper is too revealing of the ill-fitting nature, so I don’t use these. Also the strap broke the first time I tried to buckle the right shoe! The strap/upper material was made too thin to be durable for passing through the buckle easily. I would not personally recommend these, even for a doll they would fit on properly, because of this durability issue. I’m not rough with my doll things, this strap tore with very little tug on it.

Tutorial: How I Made Doll Stockings

When I got my latest dolls, who are Integrity Toys FR:16s, I realized that there was a shortage of things made just for them, including shoes and stockings. So, I decided to make stockings rather than try to find ones from another 16″ doll line by trial and error, which could be expensive and possibly also a waste of time.

I also could not find any tutorials on the entirety of the internet that show clearly and specifically how to make doll stockings from very stretchy material. If such tutorials exist, they are not readily Google-able. The best I could find were some sock-making instructions for American Girl dolls, which featured regular cotton knit material and did not tell me what I needed to know.

This blog entry is a tutorial, showing how I went about making the stockings for my Saskia Tate FR:16 doll. The techniques here can be used for any sized doll or action figure.

Disclaimer: I’m not a tailor, couturier or any other kind of fashion professional; I’m a video game programmer who likes to make stuff. So if something here is done in an unconventional way, well, there is your explanation :-) There are probably other ways to do this. Better ways even. In fact, I’d love to hear any ideas you might have for improvements. I came up with this process in a virtual information vacuum, apart from some general sewing FAQ sites.




Making the Pattern

I don’t have a pattern for stockings for the FR:16 doll, so I had to make one. I didn’t expect it to be perfect on the first try, since I’m using a very springy 4-way-stretch material and just guessing at how much stretch to allow for, but it ended up working out pretty well. Normally, I’d do the following process entirely on the computer, from a reference photo traced and manipulated in Adobe Illustrator, but to make a simpler tutorial that doesn’t require any software or software expertise, I worked with good old fashioned pencil and paper. First, I traced the doll’s leg:

The outline:

The following 4 photos show how I manipulated the outline into a shape that has a flat edge and is scaled down to allow for stretch of the material. First, I drew a line from the top of the leg section to the tip of the toe, to form the new “front edge” of the stocking pattern:

Then, I drew a new “back edge” of the stocking, essentially moving this edge over the the left by the same amount as the offset between the new and old “front” edges. The light horizontal lines I drew are the key points where I re-plotted the back edge. At each of these horizontal lines, I measured the gap between the new and original front edge lines, and then plotted the point for the new position of the back edge to the left by this same amount. The “=” in the drawing shows an example of how these offsets are equal:

In this next step, I drew the new top line for the stocking, about 90% down from the top to allow for vertical stretch. I also drew a smooth curve along the newly-plotted back edge, also pulled in a bit to allow for stretch (to about 80% in this direction). I’ve seen a lot of doll stocking patterns, and I freehand drew the curves based on how doll stocking patterns usually look:

Then, I inked over the pencil sketching with pen:

I cut out the shape, and marked it “FR:16″. This is the finished pattern:



I cut out two pieces of black spandex “power mesh”, a material I got in the dance and activewear fabrics section of Jo-Ann’s. This material is a 4-way-stretch material, but it has a bias. If you look closely at the material, it has straight lines in one direction, and staggered lines in the other, like a tiny brick wall pattern. When this type of fabric is used for stockings, the straight lines should run top-to-bottom, like the brick wall is on its side.

The following product is very important. This type of stretch material cannot be sewn in a sewing machine without some sort of stabilizer backing it. The product I use irons on and tears away (Edit: Sulky product is shown, I’ve since switched to Pellon, which I like better). There are also stabilizers that stick on like tape, and some that are water-soluble and wash away in hot water. Use what you’re most comfortable with, but use some kind of stabilizer:

Update: Since making this tutorial, which used Sulky Totally Stable, I’ve found that Pellon’s Fuse-n-Tear works a little bit better because it’s lighter weight and requires less heat and time to fuse.
Here I have ironed the stabilizer onto the mesh fabric. If your fabric has a right and wrong sides (outward and inward facing on the finished product respectively), then iron the stabilizer onto the “wrong” side because we’re going to fold this in half to sew it, and turn it right-side out after we’re done:

After ironing the stabilizer paper to the fabric, I folded each piece over and ironed a crease, to make it easier to identify the middle:

Next, I traced the pattern onto the stabilizer paper using a fine-point felt-tipped pen. I only need the full pattern on one side, the side that faces up when I sew it. You’ll see that I traced the top part onto both sides, so that I’d know where to attach the elastic:

And attach the elastic I did! I used 1/4″ braided elastic banding that has a nice little sheer trim on it. I pinned this down to the top of the stocking, on what will be the outward-facing side of the stockings:

I held the pinned pieces up to a light, to verify that the elastic was pinned accurately. I’m a bit of a perfectionist:

I set up the sewing machine for a zig-zag stitch with 2.5mm width and 1.0mm stitch length for sewing on the elastic banding. Don’t sew your elastic on with a straight stitch, it will not stretch anymore if you do this and you’ll be a very unhappy camper with stockings that are too tight to fit on your doll!

For the back (main) seam of the stocking, a small straight stitch will work, because you want a thin seam and very little stretch is needed overall. I used a 1.8mm stitch (3.5mm width setting here is not used by this stitch):

Sewing the stocking seam (still from video):

Here’s what it looks like after both stitching passes. I recommend triple stitching both the toe and the seam where the elastic ends meet, for extra strength, by sewing over the area forward, then in reverse, then forward again (all in the same pass). You can click on this photo to see it much larger:

After sewing, cut the loose threads and cut a small (1/8″ or 2mm) seam allowance:

Now comes the fun part of tearing away the tear-away stabilizer. OK, actually it’s not fun at all, it’s a pain the ass. Do this by hand, because if you use tools you risk ripping out stitching by accident. Expect this to take at least 5 minutes per stocking:

Now trim the excess material off above the elastic top:

Nearly done! Turn the stockings right-side out, I insert my Sharpie to do this:


Finished Product!

Click to see large:

New Suede Shoes for Poppy

I had some time off these past week, and during the colder part of the week I made Poppy some new shoes. These are made in the same way as her suede thong sandals, but using the tiny buckles I got from Rio Rondo, where they are sold for making miniature horse tack. The suede is from Michaels. It’s all glued together with E6000.

I threaded the ankle strap through backwards, but didn’t realize this until I was editing the photos, this is why the buckle is facing inwards in this shot.

New Face for Poppy Parker!

Ever since my first encounter on Flickr with repainted dolls–the first being a Lilith repaint by OOAKPARK–I knew that someday I would not be happy with just making unique custom clothing and shoes for my doll, but that I’d have to actually make the dolls unique. This past weekend, I finally went for it. I solicited for doll painting advice from folks on Doll Divas and Pink Parlor, absorbed all I could from the tutorials fed to me, and ran with it. A.C. Moore had a 40% off sale on all things Liquitex, so I took advantage of that to get some quality paints and mediums.

Acrylic Paints and Media

Here is the big step that took me a long time to get up the nerve to do: wipe the face off my $120 Poppy Parker without actually knowing if my repaint attempt would turn out acceptable, or if my hands would shake, my paint would blob up and I’d end up hurling Poppy’s head at the bin. Rest assured though, had the latter happened, I would not have blogged about it. The fact that you’re reading this means things turned out OK :-)

Poppy Gets a New Face 1

Fortunately, once I got started, I found that my hands were not shaky, and that I had a clear favorite among the brushes I bought: The Princeton Select 10/0 Short Liner from A.C. Moore. I’ll be getting more of these brushes for sure, they are wonderfully pointed, stiff and easy use like writing with a fine pen.

I did the eyewhites first (with very light grey), and dark red on the lips. By the time I took this first step photo, I had done the eyebrows as well, with a brown primarily of raw umber. When the lips dried, I added lighter shade vertical strokes for lip creases, and darker brown hair lines to the eyebrows:

Poppy Gets a New Face 2

Here I’ve added eyeliner (black) and dark blue base for the irises. As you can see from the underside of her eyes, the 10/0 liner can do very fine, nice lines.
Poppy Gets a New Face 3

On sunday, I set to work adding color to Poppy’s eyes about every two hours. I built up her irises from increasingly like shades of blue (mix of ultramarine, emerald green and TiO2 white). Then I did the black pupil dots and eyelashes, then finally the white specular highlights in the eyes. Of all the work, the eyelashes are what I’m least happy with. I need to find a 20/0 or 18/0 brush (or smaller) that is as good as my 10/0. The one I used was a La Corneille, which which was too soft bristled.

Here Poppy’s head is sitting for overnight drying of her varnish (gloss on the lips and eyes, matte everywhere else):

Poppy Gets a New Face 4

And that is how she turned out! Overall, I’m pleasantly surprised. I showed absolutely no knack for painting on 2D canvases, and did not really have high hopes for my attempt to repaint a tiny doll head freehand. But I’m happy with how she looks, and excited to do the next one even better! I have much to learn to make repaints like the ones I’ve really admired from Park and Jon Copeland in particular. I need to learn to use transparency, and how to thin for brush-stroke-free fills. I’ve ordered a 2.5X magnifying visor to help with doing the iris details, I’m told this really helps.

New Shoes for Poppy Parker!

Over the past two weekends, I worked on making some new shoes for Poppy Parker. She can wear quite a few Momoko shoes, and all the shoes I made for Misakis, but I have enough Poppies now to justify making some that are custom fit for her foot, which is similar to Misaki’s, but smaller.

Below, Poppy is wearing the latest pair I made just for her, the final construction steps of which are the subject of this blog entry. The shoe is built around a custom-molded polyurethane wedge sole, the creation process for which is documented in an earlier entry: Misaki Wedge Soles. This blog entry will focus on the steps that happen after the plastic casting, to create the finished product:

This first photo shows how I secure the thong portion of most of my thong style sandals. I first drill a hole all the way through the sole that is the right size to pass through the cord, which is typically 0.7mm elastic bead cord but in this case is 10-pound hemp cord. Then, I counterbore the underside with a larger drill bit, so that the knotted end of the cord will fit snuggly in the recess without pulling through:

Here you can see how I pulled the cord tight from the top, and the knot fits into the recessed hole:

The next step for this shoe was to mark where I intend the top straps to go. The top straps I made from braiding 3 different shades of brown 10-pound hemp cord into a flat braid. These marks, made with Sharpie, are my guides for where to cut recesses for the straps with my Dremel tool:

Then I Dremel the grooves for the straps. The point of the grooves is so that when I wrap the sole with leather, the ends of the straps don’t make ugly bumps visible through the suede.

In this next photo, I’m holding the straps in place around Poppy’s foot, to mark the position of the straps:

Then I glued the top strap into the carved channels:

Here the strap glue is drying, and I’ve trimmed away excess braid:

Now the fun part, wrapping in suede. I applied a thin coat of E-6000 industrial craft adhesive to the suede and the sole, waited a couple of minutes for the glue to pre-set, then wrapped the leather around the sold and trimmed off the overlapping ends:

After the glue set, I trimmed the excess with a new scalpel. This step requires the sharpness of the scalpel to get a super clean cut–an X-Acto would be a poor substitute here, though a single-edged razor blade would work OK in place of the scalpel. Cutting is done with each stroke pushing towards the center of the shoe, so that the leather is pushed against the sole during the cut, not torn away from it.

When I got to this point, I realized that what I really wanted for the thong cord was a loop that goes up through the sole and around the top strap. I used my small drill bit like a file to enlarge the small portion of the hole to accommodate two ends of the cord side by side. Once threaded through, I knotted them underneath while Poppy’s foot was in place, to get a tight fit. I used a small dab of rubberized Super Glue Ultra Gel Control to secure the knot in the hole. When the glue dried, I scalpeled it flush to the bottom of the sole.

Here is the finished product:

Crochet time

My first attempt at knitting was an epic fail. I made a test squares of stockinette stitch, but that was about all. I found that I did not have the patience for it. I actually found that having a bunch of live stitches on the needle gave me anxiety. I would have written off fiber arts altogether, were it not for my particular fondness for the look of crocheted tops on 1/6 scale dolls. I recently got a trio of bikinis from watbetty, which look fantastic on my dolls, and this inspired me to give crochet a fair trial.

What I found is that this particular craft suits me just fine. After making some swatches in fat yarn first, and learning what the loops and stitches look like, I had no difficulty working at the size 10 thread scale. My first project was to try making my own Misaki bikini, and it turned out OK, though the top is a bit wide for her bust.

Emily's Crochet Bikini

Emily’s bikini is made from #10 Cébélia crochet thread, worked with a Clover No. 2 (1.5mm) hook.

After making that, I gave half-double crochet a shot, and made Alice a halter top:

Alice's Halter Top

Next up: smaller thread. I’m experimenting today with DMC Pearl #12 and a 1.25mm hook, to see if I can make something less bulky and more toit.