NSFW Warning: Photos in this article show a doll in lingerie, and may be inappropriate for some workplaces.
This post is a addendum to my stocking tutorial here:
I won’t repeat steps from that tutorial, but instead focus on an alternative method for coming up with a pattern when the material you want to work with is very, very stretchy and the exact amount of stretch during use matters. In this case, I wanted to use a very fine, large-hole fishnet material to make cabaret-style stockings. If I used a ready at-hand pattern, the resulting stockings would exhibit mesh density issues in use, with the mesh being stretched out some places, and looser and denser other places, because my existing patterns aren’t perfectly tailored to this material.
To avoid a lot of trial and error, I decided to use a new method, similar to how I’ve seen people making patterns using dummies and pins. In this case, in place of the pins, I used small Scünci hair claw clips. I folded a rectangle of my netting over, stitched across one end, and hung it on the leg from the toe, and then used the hair clips all down the back:
While clipped, I took a large hand sewing needle and thick thread, and crudely stitched up the back. Ideally, I should have used a bright neon thread for this, instead of black, so it would be easier to see in the following step.
After sewing up the back, I removed the clips, removed the stocking from the doll, and pinned the front edge to a quilting block through a piece of bristol board that will become the pattern:
I then unblocked the stocking and discarded it. I draw in the back of the pattern by connecting the pin dots:
At this point, all of my steps match those in my previous tutorial, except that due to the very open nature of this material, I triple stitched the back seam, stitching over it 3 times, with each run offset 1/3 of a stitch from the previous. With a single pass, there is risk of a hole in the back seam.
The end result: